Made By Me – Papercuts – The Sway Dress

I have already sung the many praises of papercut patterns for bring the best at designing the patterns (see here)
Last time, the piece I made from them, the wrap top, was extremely practical. This time the dress is so simple that the main focus for me was the pattern and fabric.

One of the Instagram sewers I have followed for a while introduced me to the sway with her beautiful orange version. And at the time of making this, being the height of summer, it was perfect.

In my stash I had a beautiful light cotton with a dark marble/cloudy pattern, despite being slightly see through it was defiantly the one for this dress.

So How did It Sew?

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Completed: 18th August

The pattern itself is simple yet involves a new technique that takes a bit of a think. I have seen it referred to as the burrito technique (which is hilarious and also accurate) This was used on adding the lining to the sleeves and neckline. It involves a lot of rolling, so that the bits that need to meet do, Its like a magic trick for beautiful seams.
I made the belt and even though I prefer the trapeze style, its nice to have the option of mixing it up to make it look different, and have a different silhouette with not much effort.  Also I tend to tie it just at the back to give it some shape.

HACK! – Long Sleeve Inari

My never ending love for the Inari has lead me down the path of long sleeves. I can’t say this was totally my idea, I have seen numerous attempts on Instagram. But this is my attempt and how I went about it…
So How Did It Sew?

Completed: October

It is a simple hack really, all I did was trace the sleeves down and thinned then out a bit (the original short sleeves are quite open) I followed the same cuff finish, but I did it on a much smaller scale.
Overall, i am really happy with the make, I chose a thicker grey marl fabric to make it have a slightly more sweat shirt like feel.
It does look like a very good basic now, without its sleeves it loses its Inari features, until you notice the bottom.

This was before my overlocker, which would have made it a faster make.

Made by me – Named clothing – Helmi

I was so excited with the new pattern range from named clothing, The Evolution Theory. I instantly fell in love with the Helmi, both options: the tunic dress and trench blouse.
It looked so simple yet elegant, I decided to start with the tunic.
In my stash I had a dotted chambray in a black ( but can look blue) and white. I was intending to use this on an oversized shirt with piping, but I felt it would suit this perfect.
I invested in some buttons and was ready to go.

So How Did It Sew?

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Completed: 19th September

Thankfully the pattern was not as layered as normal named clothing patterns. I had taken a bit of a gamble when ordering, but i am glad they do patterns you can just cut now. I had a bit of a nightmare with the Keilo and the tracing was not fun…

The make itself is pretty straight forward to construct. It is very neat and elegant with the hidden buttons. the fit needed only a slight adjustment, due to it being woven i had decided to go for the bigger size to skim any lumps and bumps but i love the result.
The only thing I will change next time is rouching the sleeves with elastic or doing a full sleeve from the shirt pattern. The way they are now is not something I am overly happy with.

I can’t wait to make the shirt, I am just waiting on the right material.

Made By Me: Ralph Pink – Sahara x2

Ralph Pink are probably my favourite pattern designers. I love ALL their makes, I have a feeling that over time I will end up buying, and making, all their available patterns, and cherishing them forever. So far I have the O-hara, Sahara and Pheadra. I am also dying to get the little blazer, and then possibly further into the future, a corset?
I acquired a beautiful white crisp fabric in a fabric binge at my cheap shop i frequent. I was surprised at the quality for the cost, and glad I grabbed it.

So How Did It Sew?

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Completed: 31st August

The Sahara Shirt itself is super simple, the size of the pieces just fit together without much thinking. Even the collar and faux pocket (the most complicated technically of the whole piece) is quite do-able for even the most inexperience sewer. With a simple cuff, this is a great intro into shirts.

The instructions could be better, these were better than the Pheadra, but for an indie they could be improved. My advice: double check and go with the flow of this make ( i will write about the phedra in another post)

As you can see it is amazing on. I love this top/dress/tunic shirt. I feel that this most represents my style in a single garment. Belted, loose or open, over leggings or tucked in. buttoned to the top or showing a bit of clevage: it is so versatile and easy to wear.

So i made it in black…

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Completed: 9th October

This fabric was not as crisp as the first, but I like its more casual feel, I used my overlocker to finished the edges and straight stitched it. Unfortunately, I only had white thread at the time… its on the inside, no one will see it

I have not yet exhausted this pattern, I would really like to make a denim one, possibly with some studs or applique on it.

Made By Me: Charlotte Kan – Tie Dress

Never have such a fabric and pattern been destined to go together as much as my Charlotte Kan Tie Dress and my thick white jersey:

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To be honest I think it was actually an off cut of a fancy dress costume and has been in my stash forever (in case you were wondering it was Princess Leia outfit)
It just suited this make so much.

So How Did It Sew?

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Completed: 11th September

At first, i was really worried about the sizing so me being me, i panicked and added a couple of inches. I even made a separate pattern to cater for this. Turns out, classic story with me, I am not as fat as i think i am ( or should i say as fat as i measure)
So I made it bigger then ended up unpicking it and cutting it to the original large size of the pattern.

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So the dress took much longer to make than it should – but omg it was worth it, it looked so stylish and modern, even the crazy little pocket was super cute. This is definitely one to be worn with some old converse and a checked shirt for that uber grunge vibe.
This is definitely one that will become a staple, but I will be fussy on what fabric I make it from.

Made By Me: O-hara Pants – Ralph Pink

I have mastered tops, dresses and tunics – but have never made anything for my bottom half. This is something I am currently working on and hopefully will, in time, rectify.
But for now the O-hara, from Ralph Pink, are my one pair of me made trousers in a me made wardrobe.

The pattern is beyond simple just a few large cuts of fabric sewn together. What put me off doing this make sooner was the suggestion of getting a ribbed fabric for the waist band and cuffs. I found it hard to find matching rib and fabric in anything I liked, or a material suitable for the make. In realty a good stretch fabric has done the trick and i couldn’t be happier.

So How Did It Sew?

Completed: 27th September

I am glad I chose that fabric as it is also quite light weight and has a bit of movement.
I went over this with my overlocker,  when I finally got it, for extra durability. I would only suggest this make for those with an overlocker, due to the stretch needed on trousers.
The waist band is comfortable and suitable for a plus size belly. I have been mainly wearing these around the house just with a vest and chiffon kimono. Its quite a trendy sports luxe look, even paired with my split toe trainers.

I can’t wait for summer as I will wear these all the time. I may venture into the more hippy/boho festival patterned pants next time!

HACK! – Moneta with Longsleeve

Having made a few Colette Patterns Monetas, I decided I needed a full sleeve version.   I had some light grey marl left over from a cardigan. It was just enough (with a bit of a pattern wiggle) for a Moenta.

So How Did it Sew?

Completed: 7th June

Because Monetas are generally about 12 inches too long for me, so I pre-cut (as in folded the pattern hem) the skirt piece.   I scrounged back some fabric by doing this first.
The Moenta is a basic and easy make,made more easy by not including the lining, I skipped that as this is a real casual make.

I love this little dress, its everything I want from a skater style, even using up an end of fabric: something i tend to have quite a bit of.

Moenta is my go to skater dress, and tbh i really don’t see anything else coming close.

HACK! – Grey Sway Dress

Having fallen in love with my Sway pattern by Papercuts, I desperately wanted to add sleeves to make it more wearable for me. I also didn’t want to hack it and loose the rolling technique, so I had to figure out the sleeves around it.
I started by tracing out the sleeve shapes from the pattern pieces, this gave me the basic shape. This gave me the basic length of the seam, so I tried to tidy it up as best i can without affecting the measurements.  I went for a 3/4 length sleeve to start with, plus i wasn’t 100% sure at first if i could even roll it in the lining/dress connecting roll technique.

So How Did It Sew?

Completed: 1st September

This time I extended the sway slightly to make up for the fact I had cut short a previous attempt at a nearly midi length dress (see here) Plus I couldn’t justify having another dress that length. Due to how I wanted to wear this I ditched the belt and belt loops.
It worked rather well despite the roll being a bit more of a squish. I used one of my cheap purchased fabrics from my stash, which has a nice fine knit and drape.
I will probably use this technique again as I love a sleeve and I love the sway trapeze shape. I also like how it can be worn with no clear front or back, to mix it up a bit.

Made by Me -Wear Lemonade – Dita

When I first saw this The Dita, it was instant love at first sight. Wrap dress, bellowing skirt, bat wing sleeves and you can turn it round and wear it (technically) back to front!
I was Sold.


At first I was weary of this make, I have already tackled the issue of boobs and wraps in my previous wrap make. So i decided to trace and add some extra inches to the bust as well as make a toile of the adjustment. The main reason was because i t uses SO much fabric in the first place i did not want to get it wrong on my good final fabric.

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Completed: 25th July

My toile was and ugly, blue material I acquired 6 metres of in some furious Ebay bulk buys. It was only about £2 for THE LOT so it has fast become my go to practice fabric… although what I ended up with is a vintage looking Dita!

So How Did It Sew?

Completed: 23rd August

The main event was a black jersey knit – since dying my hair blonde, then pink I feel I can get away with wearing much more black than i used too…. more black as in all black. without looking like a full goth.

The make is quite simple, it just a bit of a workout with the amount of dress. It wasn’t a fast make, as there were a lot of long hems and seam and belts to me made, but the hard slog is definitely worth the finale result in the end.

There are two things I would change about the make
-The knit fabric: despite being thin and light, in such a volume became quite heavy, this needs to be a very light fabric.
– I would interface or add a fabric rim around the belt hole for extra support.

Overall I adore this dress, and I feel so girly in it.  I find it very flattering on a plus size frame and my boobs feel comfortable and not exposed… plus I can always turn it round for the high neck/low back version.

I have considered making this on a red for the Christmas challenge, I will  have to see what is in my little cheap shop, but red is hard to pull off with pink hair!

Checkout the glamorous ladies over at Wear Lemonade to see how gorgeous they look in it and ALL their amazing creations.

Made By Me – PaperCuts – Coppélia Wrap Cardi

I stumbled across Papercuts and had no idea how amazing and innovative their patterns would be until threw came through the door. When they say on their site ‘beautifully packaged paper patterns‘ they really do mean it.  I just love things that are clever in little ways; the fact that you cut out and fold a little concertinaed booklet, which is filled with the most beautiful images.

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The pattern itself can also be cut and HUNG on the actual box. Amazing little touches.
I have bought two of their patterns so far, the other being the sway I have seen so many lovely ladies make on Instagram over the summer. But as the first make i felt that there was an overwhelming need for a coppélia in my wardrobe. I could see it solving issues of sleeveless makes for me, as well as being made extremely casual and used as a cover up over pyjamas ans slob around clothes.

So How did it Sew?

 

Completed: 23rd August 2016

The make was extremely simple. Despite using a cheap cut of fabric as a ‘dry run’ I will probably still wear it round the house.
With that in mind I didn’t even bother using a coloured thread… i just used black.
This was a quick and simple sew due to the Raglan sleeves. The only thing that took up the most time was folding and sewing the tie part.

I can’t wait to make one in every colour, I use this so much round the house and when i am planning outfits I keep thinking back to this, a black one is definitely on the To-Do list.