hack · Made By Me · Pattern Repeat

Pattern Repeat: Helmi Hack

After purchasing the Suzy Mag Issue Two (I am so upset I got to the party late and didn’t get an Issue one) I have been very much inspired to attempt the Helmi again.

Sometimes you just need to be reminded that you have/love a pattern.  This is one of the reasons I love the online sewing community So (…Sew?) Much.  Its so inspirational with everyone bringing their ideas to the table.

2017-06-15 02.13.04

Picture from Suzy Mag Issue Two (see link at bottom for details)

The picture that struck me most was the long sleeve Helmi Hack in a gorgeous Liberty Tana Lawn.  Now, I am not one for having a Liberty Lawn just laying around, but I did have this beautiful Tropical Print in my stash.  It seemed a good substitute, yet in keeping with the original fabric tones and concept.  I had bought it purely as I loved the fabric, and had NO idea what to use it for… it was one of those can’t leave behind  purchases!

My Previous Named Clothing Helmi I had worn a lot, but could definitely use an updated version of, but not a complete replacement.  It’s one thing I love about sewing; just with a different fabric or slight pattern hack, or another collar/sleeve option and you have a completely different garment.

So How Did It Sew?

Date Completed: 8th May 2017

It was a lot more work than my first attempt, this was mainly due to the added hacks taking up a lot of thinking and planning time overall.  One issue I had was not knowing what Suzy mag had done on the back:  They said ‘optional storm flaps’.  In the actual Helmi pattern it is made almost as a waistcoat added into the garment.  After some internal debate, I decided that I was going to ignore the back of the storm flap part and just sew the front into the side seams.  I came to this conclusion mainly because if you look at the pattern, this back piece looks better/is designed for the shirt, as there is no waist seam as with the dress.  I didn’t want the flap, then the indent of the waist so close to look odd.  It made it a bit more fiddly, but I personally think it was the right step.

I didn’t really go for pattern matching, especially on the side seams.  I felt the Tropical pattern was at that size and fullness that I could pull off not matching it perfect.  Although, I did make sure the front flaps and collar were symmetrical, as well as both the arms being the same.

As suggested by the mag, a long sleeve hack is really simple to do.  I feel I have mastered a new talent of the sleeve placket now,  I drafted it from scratch and the extra care on this really makes this piece.

I love this dress – one thing I require for my summer wardrobe is light long sleeves (that can also be rolled up) One of the reasons I began this sewing journey was because I was unable to find specific things like this to buy in shops.

I can’t wait to wear this in regular circulation in my wardrobe, especially on holiday.

Also, check out Suzy Mag if you haven’t already.  It really is the best sewing mag out there, its so fresh and original, and full of inspirational articles.

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