Tag Archives: pattern hack

Hack: Inari to Basic Tee

Inari by named clothing, to me, is one of the best patterns ever. Not only do you get such a simple, sleek dress and top, but you can also hack this pattern every which way.

If you want to introduce someone to sewing, this is that pattern. Not only is it quick and easy, but its definitely a fashionable item.

Looking at my wardrobe, I decided I was in need of a good basic white tee to tie in a few pieces. Sometimes you need to take stock of your wardrobe, think why am I not wearing certain things more, and link them together with simple basics. Something about ‘dressing down’ a fancy skirt or even putting on a structures blazer over a simple tee is just really chic and effortlessly cool.

I knew I wanted an Inari like cuff on the sleeve, so I decided instead on drafting one, I would just use the Inari. I chose to use my bulk light jersey fabric. It is definitely the ultimate jersey tee fabric – Its very light, has a great drape and if you leave a raw edge, it looks amazing.

So How did it Sew?

Okay, so this tee, from beginning to end took about 45 minutes.

45 minutes from cut to on my body!

I did cut a few corners to make it how I wanted, but it shows things don’t need to take forever.

Whilst cutting it out, I simply folded the rest of the dress pattern to the length I wanted then cut out the fabric.  I was too lazy to even trace it, i just made do.   As I cut the side seam, it went from the armpit and fanned it out a couple of centimetres and followed the ‘bubble’ curve of the top. I also left an extra bit on the bottom so I had some playing room to tidy the hem.

A quick wiz though the overlocker and the top was almost finished. I ended up with the front slightly shorter than the back, but I think it has an edgy look. I tidied this up but using my ruler rotary cutter, the raw edge looks amazing, but only really holds together when cut neatly. I just tidied the dangley bits left by the scissors.

The hand sewing of the roll sleeve was a quick needle thread, and amazingly I fought the perfectionist in me, and it turned out not much different to how it would have if i had spent longer on it.

Overall, I am pleased as punch with this. I had intended to use it as a base to customise it by cutting it and distressing it, But now I love it too much as is.

 

Pattern Repeat & Hack: School House Tunic, rounded sports skirt

I am very good at storage:  this means that if you open my wardrobe, you will see a perfect capsule wardrobe with a few different trends… but with the hot weather, I have had to get the summer clothes out, and juggle it around.  This is where I remembered how much I love the school house Tunic pattern.  My summer one I made last year has practically been worn to death… I can definitely justify another one.

In an attempt to stash bust I found this fabric;  a grey cross/dot pattern that had a good sized repeat.  It was a narrow width, but more than enough for a schoolhouse with some to spare.

So How Did It Sew?

This is another one of those patterns I could do with my eyes closed… well not closed as that would be dangerous, but you get what I am saying.

This time I used a thick band of elastic on the sleeve, and I think it really adds to the overall effect of the sleeve, almost like a cuff.

The main objective of this to make it slightly different to the others was a tapered sport like skirt.  I rounded in the edges and gave them a small split.  I feel it adds just a slight difference to my other makes.  I really liked how it turned out.

 

Pattern Repeat: Helmi Hack

After purchasing the Suzy Mag Issue Two (I am so upset I got to the party late and didn’t get an Issue one) I have been very much inspired to attempt the Helmi again.

Sometimes you just need to be reminded that you have/love a pattern.  This is one of the reasons I love the online sewing community So (…Sew?) Much.  Its so inspirational with everyone bringing their ideas to the table.

2017-06-15 02.13.04

Picture from Suzy Mag Issue Two (see link at bottom for details)

The picture that struck me most was the long sleeve Helmi Hack in a gorgeous Liberty Tana Lawn.  Now, I am not one for having a Liberty Lawn just laying around, but I did have this beautiful Tropical Print in my stash.  It seemed a good substitute, yet in keeping with the original fabric tones and concept.  I had bought it purely as I loved the fabric, and had NO idea what to use it for… it was one of those can’t leave behind  purchases!

My Previous Named Clothing Helmi I had worn a lot, but could definitely use an updated version of, but not a complete replacement.  It’s one thing I love about sewing; just with a different fabric or slight pattern hack, or another collar/sleeve option and you have a completely different garment.

So How Did It Sew?

Date Completed: 8th May 2017

It was a lot more work than my first attempt, this was mainly due to the added hacks taking up a lot of thinking and planning time overall.  One issue I had was not knowing what Suzy mag had done on the back:  They said ‘optional storm flaps’.  In the actual Helmi pattern it is made almost as a waistcoat added into the garment.  After some internal debate, I decided that I was going to ignore the back of the storm flap part and just sew the front into the side seams.  I came to this conclusion mainly because if you look at the pattern, this back piece looks better/is designed for the shirt, as there is no waist seam as with the dress.  I didn’t want the flap, then the indent of the waist so close to look odd.  It made it a bit more fiddly, but I personally think it was the right step.

I didn’t really go for pattern matching, especially on the side seams.  I felt the Tropical pattern was at that size and fullness that I could pull off not matching it perfect.  Although, I did make sure the front flaps and collar were symmetrical, as well as both the arms being the same.

As suggested by the mag, a long sleeve hack is really simple to do.  I feel I have mastered a new talent of the sleeve placket now,  I drafted it from scratch and the extra care on this really makes this piece.

I love this dress – one thing I require for my summer wardrobe is light long sleeves (that can also be rolled up) One of the reasons I began this sewing journey was because I was unable to find specific things like this to buy in shops.

I can’t wait to wear this in regular circulation in my wardrobe, especially on holiday.

Also, check out Suzy Mag if you haven’t already.  It really is the best sewing mag out there, its so fresh and original, and full of inspirational articles.

Pattern Hack: Cross Swing Dress

I had been lusting over 90’s button front swing dresses for a while now.  Maybe because i remember them the first time around, so I want in on that trend again!

This dress had a few incarnations on paper, until I eventually settled on hacking a Luisa from Wear Lemonade.  I dropped the separate yoke by tracing it into the dress front, I then slightly exaggerated the trapeze shape.  The front had a V neck and button front, I simple added a few cementers to the front seam and added a strip of interfacing.

The fabric I used was from Girl Charlee, I bought it a while back and was being far to precious with using it ( I have several patterns to use still in the stash)  It is still available to buy, you can check it out here. It is a lovely light jersey, and the Gothic cross pattern is so me.  I am glad I used it for this dress as I know I will get a lot of wear out of it.

So how did it sew?

Completed:  15th December 2016

Its refreshing when making your own pattern, or hacking a previous pattern, you have the luxury of going rouge and not having to read a pattern.  You kind of just do it as you go, and love every minute of it. The dress is very light, but I think this works with the exaggerated skirt part, it has a beautiful drape.  I got so carried away with the make, i forgot i wanted to do double buttons all the way down and just done singles.  It still turned out fine, a minor detail.  I could have made this even easier on myself and made a faux button front, but I am glad it opens, as I might experiment with wearing it open… although i am lazy and just pull it on over my head rather than deal with buttons.

I am keeping the pattern, I am thinking about doing a floral version, with more tea dress like sleeves, definitely a summer wear.

HACK! – Long Sleeve Inari

My never ending love for the Inari has lead me down the path of long sleeves. I can’t say this was totally my idea, I have seen numerous attempts on Instagram. But this is my attempt and how I went about it…
So How Did It Sew?

Completed: October

It is a simple hack really, all I did was trace the sleeves down and thinned then out a bit (the original short sleeves are quite open) I followed the same cuff finish, but I did it on a much smaller scale.
Overall, i am really happy with the make, I chose a thicker grey marl fabric to make it have a slightly more sweat shirt like feel.
It does look like a very good basic now, without its sleeves it loses its Inari features, until you notice the bottom.

This was before my overlocker, which would have made it a faster make.

HACK! – Moneta with Longsleeve

Having made a few Colette Patterns Monetas, I decided I needed a full sleeve version.   I had some light grey marl left over from a cardigan. It was just enough (with a bit of a pattern wiggle) for a Moenta.

So How Did it Sew?

Completed: 7th June

Because Monetas are generally about 12 inches too long for me, so I pre-cut (as in folded the pattern hem) the skirt piece.   I scrounged back some fabric by doing this first.
The Moenta is a basic and easy make,made more easy by not including the lining, I skipped that as this is a real casual make.

I love this little dress, its everything I want from a skater style, even using up an end of fabric: something i tend to have quite a bit of.

Moenta is my go to skater dress, and tbh i really don’t see anything else coming close.

HACK! – Grey Sway Dress

Having fallen in love with my Sway pattern by Papercuts, I desperately wanted to add sleeves to make it more wearable for me. I also didn’t want to hack it and loose the rolling technique, so I had to figure out the sleeves around it.
I started by tracing out the sleeve shapes from the pattern pieces, this gave me the basic shape. This gave me the basic length of the seam, so I tried to tidy it up as best i can without affecting the measurements.  I went for a 3/4 length sleeve to start with, plus i wasn’t 100% sure at first if i could even roll it in the lining/dress connecting roll technique.

So How Did It Sew?

Completed: 1st September

This time I extended the sway slightly to make up for the fact I had cut short a previous attempt at a nearly midi length dress (see here) Plus I couldn’t justify having another dress that length. Due to how I wanted to wear this I ditched the belt and belt loops.
It worked rather well despite the roll being a bit more of a squish. I used one of my cheap purchased fabrics from my stash, which has a nice fine knit and drape.
I will probably use this technique again as I love a sleeve and I love the sway trapeze shape. I also like how it can be worn with no clear front or back, to mix it up a bit.