Tag Archives: sewing patterns

Yet Another Kielo: Basic Black Version.

Yes the title says it all, another Kielo make!  Named clothing are my go to pattern company, and my amount of Kielo’s are second to the amount of Inari’s I have (but no where near in number as I am Inari OBSESSED!)

There was a lot of inspiration on the Instagram from a few different Sewers, unfortunately the only one I can remember (and find) is Rumana’s version (aka @thelittlpomergranate) which she wore through different stages of her pregnancy.  No I am not pregnant myself (just fat) but I love the versatility of this garment.  And the fact I have not yet made a Plain black one is beyond me, since I have a black Jersey Inari that I wear to death!

So How did It sew?

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It is always smooth sailing with a Named clothing make, especially one of the classics such as this, Its a quick make, despite the long seams.  I also used the arm hack that is free on their site to make a long sleeve version. (you can get that here if you haven’t already)

As much as I love the dress, for the full on Goth effect that I always seem to gravitate towards, I prefer wearing it open.  So I went back to the sewing table and inserted a tiny hole under each of the ties.  Now when I want to wear it loose, all i do is tuck the ties neatly inside and the can not be seen.  Since making this I have also fiddled around with tying it on the inside or using a belt through the little holes.  All giving amazing new looks to the same garment.

I am pretty sure another Kielo will appear in my wardrobe in the future.  But I now feel I will have to wait for the perfect fabric for any future makes.

Pattern: DP Studios – Le 604

I think that the DP Studios is one of those sewing pattern companies that just get me.  I often feel slightly on the fringes of the sewing community.  I tend to shy away from the endless tea dress patterns made up in gaudy floral prints, instead I opt for a muted palette and style that boarders fashion design as apposed to quaint homely dressmaker.  Just a note, there is nothing wrong with this type of sewing, it just is at times I am treading a very lonely path in my seining adventure and finding it harder to find patterns and fabrics that may not appeal to the masses.

FInding DP studios bridges that gap – Its home sewer meets high fashion and high design.  Its modern and timeless rolled into one and I feel so inspired by their pieces that it just makes me want to make them all so they can sit together in my very own beautiful capsule wardrobe.

So How did it Sew?

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There was no hand holding with this one guys!   Some seams caused a bit of a headache.  You are given one page of instructions and that is it.  They have very good diagrams though, I think as someone who works more visually I loved the more graphic approach to instructions.

The box itself is amazing, No fiddly pattern envelope that you are trying to squeeze the paper back into, this has depth!  Its amazing how such a little detail can cause so much convenience.  Why aren’t all patterns like this, we shouldn’t have to struggle.

I chose to make this in a very fiddly, but beautiful, leopard print fabric.  I had been lusting after long tunic/ dress shirts in leopard print, but sheer was all i could find, apparently i am very fussy with animal print sizes and densities.  In hindsight it may have not been the best choice, but after fiddling around with all the bust seems and using a guide stitch, all the trouble was worth it for the result.

As well as the epaulettes on the shoulder, the shit also comes with a detachable collar embellishment.  Its cute, and really gives this design another dimension.  I did eventually leave the points on the collar off.  In fact, I snipped them off and it looked fine.  They just kept sticking in me and not staying where i want them.  But that is the beauty of sewing, it can be suggested rather that carried out.

I am definitely making this again.  Now i have done one, i feel like the next will be smooth sailing, although I really enjoyed having a project where I was trying something new, this made me pace out the work and not speed through like I normally do.  I definitely think I will make it longer next time.

Check out Le 604 Here.

 

The Gothic Marshmallow

I had this Idea for a Sheer oversized dress/tunic rolling around in my head for the longest of times before i realised I had the perfect pattern in my collection:  Cocowawa’s The Marshmallow Dress

This isn’t the first dress I have made, I made myself a Christmas dress with it one year in a beautiful blue tartan (check that out here)  When it was first released I loved seeing other peoples versions online; i swooned over the peter pan collars, bows and gorgeous fabrics they used.  Overall it helped me confirm my wanting to make this dress, but I also think sometimes it can be distracting to see a patterns full potential, especially in a sheer fabric.

One version I loved above all, was The Petite Cats’s version;  a copycat of the red Valentino dress (see that here)  This was the first time from all the makes I have seen online that really put the potential of this pattern into perspective.  It lifted it from homemade crazy patterned clothing to high end functioning fashion in one pic.  Not to mention that beautiful pussy Bow.  And so (sew?) the seed of inspiration was set.

So How did it Sew:

I decided to go down the sheer basic black for my version, thus creating THE GOTHIC MARSHMALLOW (also my metal band name if I ever have one!)

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This dress, is an easy make, not just because I had made one before, but because I picked the most streamline basic version of this pattern (no collar, no bow, just the dress)

The fabric was a pain in the Booty to cut, but strangely not an issue to sew as it sort of held to itself.  I think it helped that I avoided pinning and just rammed it through the over locker, which has become my style lately.  To be honest I COULD have done a french seam here, but it really doesn’t notice at all, even though the sheer fabric.

The only fiddly bit was the buttons, but that can be said for all buttoned patterns.  What I like about this dress is the freedom to wear it wither way/ back to front.  Depending on what look i want to go for.

I absolutely love this dress, so much so that after my mini photo shot i put it back on and wore it for the rest of the day.

I love the casual Gothic aesthetic this dress has, almost like a comfy vampire.  I love the subtle ruffle detail that gives it an amazing shape.  For someone who wears mainly oversized clothing, these little details are really important and add a lot of variety to your silhouette.

I am tempted to make, like the petite cat, a more dressed up version with a gorgeous Pussy bow.  But for now this plan is shelved and put into the ‘needs the perfect fabric’ pile.

 

Made By Me: The Grey Darling – Megan Neilson

Once, Long ago – I bought the Darling ranges from Megan Neilson.  I had loved the Sudley so much I knew I would love this dress too.  Unfortunately, my first attempt with a cute plaid was a complete fail – I needed to add extra to the bust but I didn’t, and it went no where near my boobs!

Sometimes towards the end of the summer, wanting another cute grunge dress, I set about using this beautiful light fabric in this grey/mauve colour.  I added the extra boob room, I have recently been getting into tracing and up sizing my smaller fit patterns, and its a useful skill to have in sewing.

Unfortunately, again, my work was put on hold, but this time it was because I couldn’t find the right buttons.  It then ended up in the TO DO pile and forgotten.

Then, months later in the giant button haul, it finally got finished.  And here it is in its full glory:

 

 

Sew How did it Sew?

Even with the added bust adjustment, this pattern was a breeze.  Its such a simple make but looks amazing on.  Yet despite the simplistic make, it looks really well put together on.  I love how it sort of hints at a tea dress without being too fussy or shaped.

I love this version, the colour and fabric are just perfect for me.  But its far too lightweight for winter, even layered up.  Its definitely a summer dress that I can chuck on.

I love the overall look, it really fits my grunge ascetic I always aspire too.  The buttons are a pewter colour and are perfect.  I didn’t follow the pattern advice and bought a smaller button and added more as I felt needed that, it helps conceal a bigger bust.

I cant wait to make this dress again, but I am definitely waiting around for the right fabric.  I don’t think for how I plan to wear it I would chose a stiffer or thicker fabric, but it definitely deserves some pattern!

 

Kalle Shirt Dress – LONG SLEEVES!

When the Kalle was first launched it was probably the most near perfect pattern.  I loved it.  But I longed for a sleeve hack.  The original Kalle sleeve as is, was far too short for me.  I tend to wear them layered under cardigans  I even asked my beautiful Instagram community for help for a hack in desperation – and still no luck.

Then the BEAUTIFUL people from Closet case patterns bought out the long sleeve hack.  And it was EVERYTHING…

Images from Closet Case Website

Now, before we go on, just a little negative here: I have had many patterns that introduce a hack, for example the Keilo and Inari from Named Clothing both had a sleeve and collar hack.  Both of which were completely free.  On the other hand, I was so desperate for a long sleeve hack and was happy to pay for that privileged of not figuring it out my self.  Its just something to consider if you are reading this post before purchasing the Kalle and/or just the sleeve hack.  So its more of a neutral comment that a complaint, but I always like to support independent business, so its all good.

So How did it Sew?

I will leave the details of the Kalle make itself  to my previous post where I covered that, instead I will focus on the Sleeves:

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As you can tell I absolutely love it.  So much so (sew?) that I ended up unpicking a sleeve on a Kalle I was working on and adding the hack to it (black Version)

The fabric I chose for both Black and white shirt, I thought was the same.  It had the same texture embossed into it, but the white was much softer and had a slight stretch, as apposed to the black that was a bit shinier.  I enjoyed sewing with the white more, but both were extremely light and have great movement.

The sleeve was incredibly simple to install.  I like how they approached it with the longer cuff, and how it took up a lot of the sleeve.  It Looks chic and can be worn up or down.  What really makes this is the shape of the existing sleeve (if you have made the kalle it is before you put the cuff on) which gives the overall piece a great shape and much more than the average shirt/shirt dress.

With the sleeve, I feel I will get much more use out of this pattern.  I still need to make the short and the tunic length versions, but having sleeves, for me, opens up more possibilities.

Top 10 Patterns – Part 2: 5 – 1

*Continued from part one… If you haven’t read that yet, please check that out here*


5. Megan Nielson – Sudley Dress

I love how when you get a pattern that you know you are going to love and do.  That’s exactly what happened with the Sudley – it was love at first sight.  It’s very much my casual chuck on dress style, I have made this in both heavy red velvet and a soft chiffon fabric, and both give completely different looks.  But one of the reasons it has placed so high is that it is such a current and fashionable pattern.  Something similar will always grace the shelves of the High street shops, but instead of buying into that throw away fashion, I can simply find a fabric I will love and make one from that,  The ones I have made and wear a lot always get compliments, yet its such a simple design.

Also a massive plus it that you can wear it either way, with the tie at the front or the back… perfect for messy me who will definitely drip something down me whilst I am out, so I can just turn it around and hide any stain!!

I have also tried the Darling (blog to follow soon) and I have the Karri ready to go, both from Megan Neilson, so check them out.


4. Sewliberated – School House Tunic

This was one of the first independent patterns I bought, also one of the first PDFs I printed out and made, and I have had a deep love for it ever since.

I was completely sold by this striped version (see pic) I just love everything about this casual look.  Sew liberated themselves have this great earthy, casual vibe.  Where everything thing can be dressed with a chunky knitted cardi, tights and boots in Autumn or made in light feminine lace or florals for the summer.  My favourite I have made so far, is the dark flower stretch denim.  The Tunic length on this is perfect for me as a Dress, (especially since I have short legs) and I am always thinking up ways to try and Hack the front and make it different (I am yet to try rivets and ribbon)


3. Closet Case Patterns –  Kalle Shirt Dress

A recent but a fast favourite.  Its just perfect.  I love all the different options it comes with, the length and collars.  The fit is amazing.  I have made two short sleeve ones, one of which was a present.  And now with the recent release of a sleeve, I am in my element.  I made a black and white version straight away.  This originally was placed lower, but after the sleeve hack came into my life, it went up the list.  Keep an eye out for my future blog post on this one.


2. Ready to Sew –  Jude

The Jude is again another casual that have revolutionised my everyday wardrobe.  I have a small group of these in basic colours that I wear all the time.  I also made one with a silk fabric that I have worn for more special occasions.  This placed so high, purely because the amount I have and the amount I wear them.  Its such a simple yet effective pattern and I would like to hack it to a full sleeve version as we all know I am a full sleeve fiend!

Ready to Sew also get an honorable mention of  the Janis and Jolene, both of which I love (but still only made a few of)


1. Named Clothing – Inari

So my number one is one pattern that rises above the others… Named clothings the Inari.

All Images from Named Clothing Website.

Could it really have been anything else?   How many times have I made this pattern, in many different versions?  And I still want to make more!  I just love it, everthing from the fit to the simple construction,  yet the seams and the rolls sleeves just make it so stylish and current.  From the many of these, my favourite so far is the white one, the structured material is amazing.  But I have several Jersey versions that I live in as part of my everyday wardrobe.


 

So that is my top 10, is yours similar?  Do you agree?  Do you have any suggestions that you think I might like?

I am going to use the tag #toptensewingpatterns for you to add your own to the debate.

Leave a comment.

And Have Happy New Year from Frock & Sew.  As 2017 comes to an end I hope 2018 brings you all the fabric and patterns and sewing time you could wish for!  

x X x

My Top 10 Patterns – Part 1: 10 – 6

Disclaimer:  This is about my sewing experience and favourite patterns,  compiled from about a year and a half of serious sewing.  All patterns on this list have been made by me at least once and are in my pattern collection.  I have a pile of newer patterns to try out, so a follow up in the future will definitely be needed… on that note, if you read this and know a pattern I would like, please feel free to leave a comment.  I love a good recommendations (If it isn’t already in the TO DO pile) 

All patterns have been linked, I have put the PDF link where possible, but do search for a paper pattern if you prefer… its just you might want to download it straight away and sew it.

Please not this post has been divided in two, but please be warned its still a long one. x


Part 1:  10 to 6


I have been thinking of this post for a long time, I always say throughout my blog posts that ‘oh it’s one of my top 10 patterns’

But what is that definitive list?

Believe me it was hard to decided just ten, so here they are:

10.  Pauline Alice – Cami Dress

Left and Middle: From Pauline Alice website. 

Right: My version.Check out the Original post here.

This is a very recent addition to the list, but had to be included as it bought my sewing journey full circle .  What I had attempted to draft myself in the early days, I found about 1.5 yrs later in this pattern.  So far I have only made and worn one, but this definitely needs further exploration, and many colours.


9. Made It Patterns – Drop Dress & Top

Pictures from Made It Patterns Website.

This pattern is a bit of an unsung hero of the wardrobe and deserves a place purely for the mileage from one pattern:  I have made many of these in various colours.  Unfortunately, due to them being mainly for my casual round the house wear they don’t lead as glam a life as some of my other hand made pieces.  That’s not to say they are any less important, in fact they do so much more hard work compared to other pieces.  I love this pattern and would also like to include an honorable mention to their other pattern, the GROOVE, which has so much potential with interchanging pieces… including a hood!

My Drop Dress original post is here. If you are curious, the Groove is here.


8. Wear Lemonade – Luisa

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Images from Wear Lemonade. Link in title.

Of all the Lemonade patterns I have, I have made the Luisa the most.  With the Luisa I have used it as a base, hacked and shaped it into many other items I love and wear today.  The picture I have shown is the one I love the most and is the Luisa in its purist form.  Of all the smock Dresses I have this one is the most flattering on.

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Original Blog post can be seen here.

Bonus points to wear Lemonade for the Video Tutorial (despite me only knowing basic french) which is a great help when making.


7. Ralph Pink – Sahara Shirt

 

Ralph pink has fast become a favourite of mine, I think it is one of those brands where I feel I want to make ALL they have on offer.  Saying that, my absolute favourite is the Sahara:  It completely embodies everything I love to wear in one garment:  smart, casual and oversized.  I have made a black and a white one and have worn them continuously  for about a year.   You can dress them up, add a belt wear them over stuff.  I will be making more of these soon, hopefully branching out into pattern.  I am just waiting now to find the most perfect fabric to reserve for my favourite garment.


6. Colette Patterns – Moneta

Left:  My favourite Moneta that to date I have made.  See the blog post here. Right:  From Colette Patterns Website.

Moneta has placed quite highly on this list, not just because of the sheer amount I have made, but for how much I have also used it as a base for projects in some way.

It is the ultimate base pattern, and without its help in the beginning of my sewing journey, I may not have experimented as much as I had done without it.

Not to mention how amazing it looks on, all the measurements are perfect.  This is the ultimate basic skater that all Sewers should have in their collection.

Also, a bonus shout out to using about 3 different body types on the site to show how well it suits everyBODY there is.  Thanks guys.


 

So that is my 10 – 6… Part 2 will be published in a few days and before 2017 ends, so keep an eye out here, and definitely on my Instagram.  If you want to join in with the countdown, feel free to add your own with the #mytop10patterns, I would love to see what you think.